Suarez Family Brewery is roughly 100 miles from New York City, but it’s a world away in terms of atmosphere and vibe. Way out on U.S. 9, in a serene, peaceful and relatively unpopulated area, you’ll pull up to the brewery. From the outside it resembles some sort of large brick home, minus the visual indicators of say a porch and a swing. It was this approach that first signaled that this would be a slightly different brewery visit. Once inside, the design is spartan, unfussy. A handful of people huddled over small glasses with pronounced, frothy heads. It was homey and quiet. The decor was neither too little, nor too much. It felt, well, just right. And as the beers poured, I began to feel like many of the adjectives I was thinking about to describe the space began to apply to the beers—quiet, unfussy, just right. Each example seemed delicate and expertly crafted. I began to think about the contemporary race towards extremes, the big beers getting bigger, flavors more varied and pronounced. My visit to Suarez felt like a pause, a break from that paradigm. My pils was crisp and clean. My porter was roasty and easy drinking. Way out on U.S. 9, Dan Suarez is making beers that in many ways break from contemporary norms, but don’t let that scare you.